Despite the daily images of carnage coming out of Iraq over the past 2 and a half years, the story of the Kurds in northern Iraq is one of progress, hope and determination. In the midst of the violence and chaos that has engulfed much of the rest of the country, the Kurds have leveraged a golden opportunity and are building on the unprecedented freedoms they have enjoyed since 1991. Unlike the rest of country, the north is living the promise of the new Iraq while preparing themselves for independence in the event Iraq falls apart. This story chronicles these changes while also reminding us of the troubles and dangers that still exist in this turbulent land.